A Look at the New Venus Optics Laowa 10mm f/2.8 Zero-D FF Autofocus Lens

I believe and am very thankful for a great honest review covering the landscape portion as well as the star elongation at the sides, this may be corrected with a lens correction because the website has it corrected. I have been using the Voigtlander 10mm f/5.6 since 2016 and keep in a pocket in my everyday carry teardrop bag for just encase. I was one of those astro MW photographers that kept going wider and wider mainly because not knowing about pano rigs, well big and heavy and expensive for a hobbyist, today I have a most excellent $125 model with a degree stepper at its base. I also have the the FE 12-24mm f/2.8 after using the f/4 and for info the E 10-18mm (15-27mm) f/4 OSS BUT works great at 12-18mm (18mm if the light shield is removed) I used in '15 for astro Milky Way before anyone had a 12mm it was for Sony APS-C cameras before the Sony full frame A7 line, started using after the terrible Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 and no LC for a year so could not use images but elongated stars even after. For those who want a super small lightweight 12mm with pinpoint stars the E 10-18mm should be tucked in a place for any day or night image gets light and brightness and pinpoint at 30s !
Just for info Haida rear lens filters are unaffected with ND filter blue sky center hump because they are in the back and after the lights passes through all the glass. A separate Clear Night filter is like a ND that gives baby blue sky even shooting into the sun or any direction. You still will like to have a good upfront filter to take the shine off water/windows as you turn it.
All well here is some of what I have learned using a 10mm just like you have found with a 12mm, things are further away but I call the sharp peripheral vision mm that looks like a panorama without the post work. Like the images at bottom but the last one shows the distortion indoors where fans and lights above get twisty and floors/pavement have a ramping look close. The first thing you will find you have to have a story close as well in the background wideness not for getting everything in a frame like a tourist trying to save film, yes I have also the Canon FD 14mm f/2.8 learned in the 70's.
Lastly if the moon is somewhere in the frame it will be a pinpoint somewhere up there, no lens will have the moon the size you see it along with what your out of focus peripheral vision sees in combo, when cloning in post just hold you thumb out while sitting back and not make the moon any bigger, it will look more real.
If you have the Sony MF colors you will see focus is both far and near the reason AF is so fast and no matter the mountains low on the horizon and items very close will be sharp just like night captures with a f/1.4 lens where lights on the horizon and sea shells at your feet all are sharp and in focus where some times in the day you get narrow DOF and near/far bokeh of focus point. The first image I forgot to focus so used to AF!! Yep near and far day or night, just awesome! 2nd if at 300% you will see tv lights in hotel rooms only seen with a magnification glass on a print. If in a hotel room way up 50 + floors and to get image of a city you will need a big dark blanket over the window not the little suction cup device you can buy, just to help you plan and be ready!
To get a higher than normal MW Arc do a portrait view pano in August even near sunrise it will look like lips on someone's open mouth if taken at a beach!
Just have a great time learning about a new lens, just a little share.
I think the reviewers images are excellent and very truthful.